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Author Topic: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment  (Read 12008 times)

Offline 1PinballKnight

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Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« on: February 26, 2016, 03:41:22 PM »
Anyone else having the problem of removing or reinstalling their backglass/Translite where it is tight as hell and I have to start from the right and work my way left? Now with the 3D Translite and original trim its even a tighter b__ch! Almost to the point your afraid you'll break the glass. I'm thinkin of removing the top trim just to get enough clearance. Any other ideas? Also the speaker panel is fully seated and bottomed out. #793 in the house and "luvin every minute of it" except this nagging pain. Also installed a 9 pin molex between Translite and main backbox board wiring harness to eliminate removing the connector to the main board. I believe the original MM had this as well.

Offline ScottM

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2016, 05:27:38 PM »
My back glass is also very tight. I just received the 3D, so hopefully it does not get worse. #349.

Offline 1PinballKnight

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2016, 06:02:16 PM »
ScottM, try not putting the top trim piece and let me know what's up. I'm guessing it will work much better. I thought of it after I put the 3D Translite on and got it finally in. 

Offline Wiked

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2016, 06:46:36 PM »
Mine was tight also when I took it off to have a look and install a head bolt.

Offline ScottM

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2016, 10:35:55 AM »
Prior to installing the translite, I removed the top trim piece to gain extra clearance. There was no appreciable difference so I left it on for the 3D. I did not find the 3D to be any tighter than the original because no parts that affect dimensions have changed. In summary, I don't need to remove the back glass too frequently, so I'm not worried. However, CGC should evaluate the build to avoid this condition on future releases.


One thing that I did learn to appreciate was the beauty of the original translite. Seeing it without the glass made me realize its quality. This made me somewhat regret replacing it, so at some point it will be framed and hung.

Offline 1PinballKnight

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2016, 11:27:41 AM »
Scott M, thanks for trying without the top trim piece and letting me know. I truly appreciate the original Translite as well for its beauty. Enjoy the game as I am after waiting for a long long time. Again many many thanks to Rick and to Lloyd for manning the rear guns. I don't think they are receiving nearly enough credit or appreciation in how this beautiful remake and endeavor came out and especially the bumps that weren't or beyond their control.

Offline mbuawa

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2016, 03:40:08 PM »
I also had trouble with getting my backglass back in. It was hard to get out and then impossible to put back in. I removed the top trim piece and it was still very tight but I did manage to get it back in. Kinda odd....

Offline Bobsolete

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2016, 04:18:47 PM »
I have the same problem. The translite is very difficult to reinstall.

Offline 1PinballKnight

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2016, 04:45:39 PM »
Bobsolete, I have a ticket in with my distributor. It is very difficult if not to the point of glass breakage. I asked if they can take a 1/16 or 1/8th off the front lip of a replacement speaker panel and send it to me and I would do the swap. I haven't heard back yet or send me a panel and I will do the work. I don't want to take mine out of commission for a period of time just to get this rectified. I'll let ya know what happens. Hopefully soon.

Offline MrRich

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Re: Translite/Speaker Panel fitment
« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2016, 01:54:57 PM »
I had the same problem removing my translite.  Thought I was going to break something every time it was removed and re-installed.  After measuring, inspecting, and trying other translite assemblies (TOTAN and MB), I came to the conclusion that the problem was the plastic white insert behind the glass.  Looks like CGC redesigned this piece for LED strips and didn't leave enough clearance on the top.  The main clue for me was a black line on top of the white insert where it was hitting the internal wood guide and rubbing off black paint.  I had to put a lot of upward pressure to get it out.  There's nothing wrong with the glass size or plastic trim pieces or the speaker panel or the back box cabinet size.  I spent hours measuring this stuff.

This bugged me sooo much that I decided to fix it myself.  I waited until my family was out for a couple of hours (wife would of had me committed if she knew what I was about to do) and removed the back box from the machine.  Next, I removed speaker panel and turned the back box upside down.  Using a sanding block with 120 grit paper, I sanded the edge of internal wood guide to match the angle of the insert.  I only need about an 1/16" of additional clearance.  After sanding for a few minutes, I cleaned up the dust, turned the back box right side up, re-installed the speaker panel and tested the translite fit.  First try was much better, but still needed a little more clearance.  After repeating the sanding sequence 1 more time, I was very happy with fit.  To hide any evidence of my modification, I painted the area I sanded with semi gloss black paint pen.  The whole process took a little over an hour, but I was being very careful with everything.  A little novus on a rag cleaned up the black line on the insert.

I'm not sure how CGC would have resolved this.  In their defense, I didn't give them a chance.  Do you have the same issue?  Try this...remove the plastic white insert from your translite assembly (keep your trim pieces on).  If you can freely remove/install your glass, the problem is with your white insert.  If not, you have a different problem.